Anlard,Anlard wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 9:58 amHello again. First of all, a shout-out to Dave Denowh for the TCI rebuild. He did it over the weekend and I got it on Monday.
Here's the update - - - with the new TCI unit installed the bike starts up from cold immediately, no tach flutter. There IS some "spitting" from the exhaust at idle but, after driven, that all goes away. The bike pulls smoothly and runs fine. The only issue now is the idle will slowly rise after warm and, when adjusted down, will tend to die, so the adjustment is always being fiddled with. Also, it is hard to start when warm. I know this seems like the pilot screws need adjustment (they are 3x out right now) and I'll try that "running one one cyl at a time trick" to try and pin that down but, other than that, are there any suggestions on the idle issue and the hard start when warm I should look at? This has been a great winter project and I am SO close!
That's not really a trick. There's no other way to set the Pilot Screws (think about it). Yamaha doesn't indicate in the Factory Manuals on what the average turns out from a soft seat are for the Pilot Screws. Turn values that you may have come across are settings folks have found that work best for them . Every Virago is rather unique on to itself, due to age. There are various things that can throw things off.I'll try that "running one one cyl at a time trick" to try and pin that down
"Running rich, running lean
I get lots of "black plug" questions, and while I cover a lot of the reason for this in the carb articles, I decided to do a list here (and on lean running as well)
Why carbs run rich:
--Air cleaner dirty
--Fuel too high in float bowls
--float valves leaking
--floats out of adjustment
--floats leaking (taking on fuel, going "heavy")
--Pilot screws adjusted too rich
--Coasting enrichers (where found) not working properly (cutting off air to pilot circuits)
--Worn needles and/or needle jets (ovalling)
--Starter plungers leaking
Why carbs run lean:
--Air leaks (between carb and engine)
--Pilot screws adjusted too lean
--Fuel levels too low in bowls
--floats out of adjustment
--slides not rising properly
--Fuel supply problems
--Seals around butterfly shafts leaking air (mainly affects idle)".
Here's an excerpt below taken from an article on this website:
A NOTE ON COIL WINDINGS
The wire windings in coils touch each other. However, they have an insulating skin on them and so one winding is insulated from the next.
I know of only two things that can happen to windings. The wires can break causing an open circuit or "open". Or the insulation between windings can break down, allowing the actual conductors to touch--which allows current to jump across windings. This can be called a "short". In testing a coil, an "open" will show up as lack of "continuity" or an infinite resistance condition--no current gets through. A "short' will show up as an out of spec resistance number (probably lower) as current jumps across windings. The only other point to keep in mind is that metal (and wire is metal) expands a little when hot. Occasionally windings will start touching and "short" when they heat up, whereas they will test O.K. when cold.
Sound familiar? Do a Coil Resistance Test. First Cold and then again when HOT. See if you get a difference in Resistance Values.